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Thanks so much!

Thanks for a very informative and honest video Bruce. I have some of your habits too. I liked your wee hand weeder and will make one soon. I think that you need to train and mentor some young people to take the load off you and pass on your skill and knowledge.

I'm in zone 9 and can confirm weeds grow through the black tarp. Granted I too should have weeded before the flower stage but still, it's shocking just how strong weeds are.

I Think the corn broke because there were too many beans as well as no wind in the tunnel as the corn grew to make it stronger.

I want to show you my bush beans and ask few things about its condition....where can i contact you?I only planted 4 so yeah 😅and 4 okra too...and i grew it in a bucket

Hey! Are you growing any grains this summer? Your wheat refining experiment was really interesting last year.

In your video when you talk about the delicata squash and there's one on the end that looks extremely different, I really think that is a Long Pie Pumpkin squash. It also isn't ready to eat until it turns orange. I've just picked mine after growing it this first year and I'm waiting for it to fully turn orange so I can't comment on the flavor. Thanks for the video.

Fantastic video! I love the way you went through the different variations of the build and uses for it. VERY informative and full of first hand experience!

Thank you for taking such a scientific approach to trying to get the runner beans to produce more pods, and sharing it with all of us. This type of information is so helpful. While it may not be a 'controlled study', it provides valuable information for the average grower.

This is my number 1 issue with trying to stay organic but my home made compost just isn’t sufficient to get what I need from our small garden. Would be interested in testing my own soil to understand the deficiency. Would you recommend particular labs here in Ireland and suppliers of organic amendments?

A couple of thoughts: we DO add sawdust to our working compost if we have it. Sawdust composts just fine, if not added in excessive amounts. We never add teabags any more as industry switched to a paper/polypropylene composite more than twenty years ago. The paper fibers decompose, leaving a plastic mesh that must be fished out of the finished compost.

I compost too. I am so curious if compost can be done just by gravity.

Can slugs swim?

Dont kill slugs rule them easy😊😊

Slugs aint slow😮

This has been super helpful and interesting. Thank you!

nicely done!

This was extremely helpful, thanks so much.

Very nice system. If I ever have the chance to implement something on this scale, I will be revisiting this for reference.

LABS, lactic acid bacteria serum takes the foul smells away and adds to soil health. Just search on yt for instructions.

Ive started making biochar, and innoculating that with urine and weed water. I tossed in the rest of calcium I made, too.

I wonder if there is any way to harness the heat of the decomposition? I'm quite surprised it is up to 60°C ...

Super helpful thanks!

Waooo... this is what I need in my farm! I'm constructing one immediately.Thank you for sharing.

💡yo!..you should build half of the bins on an elevated patio above the other bins. The top bins would also be built on a horizontal pivot system, like a dump truck. Since you only turn your compost once, you could literally just dumb the top bins into the bottom bins. That would be so much easier!!

I don’t understand why you didn’t put your compost piles on a concrete base. Concrete releases heat slowly helping to heat the compost while preventing to rats access to the food source. ❤️🙏🏽

I’ve been composting and using urine with fish fertilizer this year. I can’t say how well it’s working because it’s my first year gardening but the fish fertilizer grosses my wife out more than my pee. Just don’t use it for food if you’re taking meds.

I'm using urine to rid my tree stumps...anyone try this?

so many people that do the 3 sisters technique, forget a portion of the idea. Planting order matters, BUT most importantly, when you look up the original description... The were planted in mounds, with a corn surrounded by climbing beans and then at the edge of the mount there was squash. One of the issues is that the western ideal crop is in rows on flat earth. While the idea of each mound being on its own, and not conjoined in a continuous row. I'll also say, you're absolutely right about climate playing a part, and I think you could get away with the real 3 sisters technique if you substituted the plants based on your climate. But thats just what I've read, I'm looking forward to trying to 3 sisters method on my own garden in a desert, using drought resistant crops that use facultative cam. Using Purslane as the ground cover instead of squash. But idk, maybe I'm deluded xD

Why is it only HORSE manure you get in these beds? There's almost no horses round here but plenty of cattle bedded on straw. Would cattle dung not accomplish the same effect?

Have you considered rat birth control not sure if it’s cheap or available but can reduce populations quickly

Well done. Thank you.

Great job.

Urine is obvious really, best to use it fresh as it comes out essentially sterile (unless you’ve been up to no good!) Anyone with a pet can’t fail to notice that the grass grows 5x as fast where they pee. Fresh faeces is more problematic and needs composting to reduce the risk of enteric microorganisms. E. Coli on salads is the big risk.

Get a ferret or a mink problem solved

Give corn and beans space around exterior of tunnel structure and try some Iran, Afghan, Japanese pumpkin varieties.

Drown them, hmmm i think water barrier, thank you sir for your wisdom

Great video and information and I don’t say that easily. Most times in YT videos particularly gardening, it doesn’t hardly start before I’m shaking my head at the incorrect info. And in a few minutes, I’m moving on. But yours is wonderfully presented and accurate. I would like to suggest that you add the plant names ie captions, as you are showing/talking about them - not a huge deal but could be helpful for beginners. The only thing I would say was and maybe I didn’t see this in your garden photos but maybe you are trying to help Mother Nature do her job with pests, ie example cabbage moth larvae ie caterpillars being a source of food for wasps and birds. Thus you might not want to protect your crops too much with cover nets and cloth. I was impressed with you using the nets ie very tiny holes in it, allows the sunshine and rain. If you are not wanting to help feed the wasp and bird babies and other helpful critters, I suggest putting hooks on your wooden or metal poles/posts so you can hold the netting at least 4” the off the mature height of your brassicas or any plant - read your seed packets for mature height of the plant. You don’t want the numerous cabbage moths/butterflies, other pests etc to be able to lay their eggs through the net. They will hatch and eat their way to the crop (leaves, roots and all). Same for any plants you are protecting. Remember that some pests (like stink bugs) come up through the soil or others are just fly in. But before planting, keep the soil covered or when planting your rows or blocks - place heavy cardboard around the plants - it will decompose but in the meantime, “help” keep bugs from coming up. If I have noticed a over abundance of bugs - I like to leave the soil bare in the coldest part of winter so cold air can kill the eggs and go out numerous times to flip the soil with shovel or spade, hoe it, or otherwise stir it so sun and cold air reached the eggs or burrowing pests- deeper the better. I don’t till, over tilling makes dust that just blows or runs away when you get heavy rain - I don’t like fine dust for anything including small fine seeds like carrot. I live on the east coast, many people are against tilling and always mention the dust bowl, well that’s fine for prairie and desert areas and I get but I don’t have much in the way of drought so severe to cause these problems. In fact, east of the Mississippi, you don’t have this problem. Also I water deep for my shrubs, perennials, etc- use buried soak hose and run it for the most part-overnight and just oozing out all the way to the end.i water my tomatoes deep also because they have deep roots, not necessary for short rooted plants. If I noticed an over abundance of pests chewing on my plants the prior year or even in the current year, I do use a product called AzaMax by General Hydroponics. It’s a MRI listed insecticide, miticide and nematicide that kills a wide variety of pests and acts as an antifeedant, growth inhibitor and anti-oviposition. Works best against immatures. AzaMax®EPA registered product that is labeled for use on hemp as a foliar or drench application. Apply at any plant growth stage as a preventative or a curative treatment every 7 to 14 days. Controls spider mites, broad mites, russet mites, aphids, root aphids, whiteflies, thrips, fungus gnat larvae, fungus gnat adults, powdery mildew, etc. It’s manufactured by General Hydroponics and you can see their product label as to what it protects and what it kills. Always read and follow protection instructions. While this is a natural product and certified for organic production, it does have some specifics. And like all such fungicides, etc - do not spray in mid day as many plants are sun sensitive and the resultant sun burn can be worse than the pest damage. Spray early morning or late afternoon so it is dry prior to the sun landing on the plants. Follow directions for cleaning spray equipment and getting rid of old product. This pesticide is toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates. READ THE LABEL. I like it because it is OMRI listed and it stops the pests from feeding on the plant and without food, they die in 3-5 days, by 2 applications 7-14 days apart, I find little new damage and if you start with treating young plants as instruction state, you won’t get much in the way of damage or little worms in your greens or cabbages at all. Suitable for most plants from Apples to zucchini and daisies to roses - again read! Go to the General Hydroponics website and look at the Products tab. Just something that could be helpful - best wishes and I can’t wait to do a binge watch of your other videos and new ones.

no more than 5 bean plants should be planted. Compacting your mound is also needed for corn to keep them from falling over.

Dang the powdery mildew is real on that zucchini plant what a shame not your fault just sad to see 😊

Why and How We Save Seeds - John Kempf . Do you listen to MP3s or anything while you work?

wow, you're keeping it real. gotta respect that.

Excellent video. Where's the rat one? EDIT: nevermind, I see it on the screen. I'm mentally preparing myself for some gruesomeness...

I have tiny slugs in california and they like Wet Weeds so I use containers of wet weeds to capture them and take them out but it's not 100%, I think using weeds as Bait works a lot better than hunting with a flashlight.

For whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord shall be saved. (Romans 10:13) He that covereth his sins shall not prosper: but whoso confesseth and forsaketh them shall have mercy. (Proverbs 28:13) Have mercy upon me, O God, according to thy lovingkindness: according unto the multitude of thy tender mercies blot out my transgressions. Wash me throughly from mine iniquity, and cleanse me from my sin. For I acknowledge my transgressions: and my sin is ever before me. Against thee, thee only, have I sinned, and done this evil in thy sight: that thou mightest be justified when thou speakest, and be clear when thou judgest. (Psalms 51:1-4)

Just started watching your channel looking forward to learn also since i have just started

Just started watching your channel looking forward to learn also since i have just started

Planting timing is very important to take note, I think i escaped catapillar in my cannabis by waiting until july 20 to plant clones and harvested within 60 days due to decending day light.

Hello Bruce, always follow your videos with great interest, in your video 'In search of nitrogen' you mention 'concentrated amendments'- this is something I tried myself with great success using 18.6.12, +S, there's not much info however on these products other than basic manufactures data sheet, are there any concerns or are they just synthetic versions of naturally occurring minerals which will be absorbed by soil over time? thanks

Out of curiosity. Could alfalfa pellets be a viable option for additional nitrogen? I use them in my tiny worm composting bin and i noticed it shrinks faster than with other added green material. Thoughts on this?